Photograph of Hubert de Givenchy.
Hubert de Givenchy

Overview

Count Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy (born February 21, 1927) is a French aristocrat and fashion designer who founded the The House of Givenchy in 1952. He is famous for having designed much of the personal and professional wardrobe of Audrey Hepburn, as well as clothing for clients such as Jacqueline Kennedy.

Life

The younger son of Lucien Taffin de Givenchy, Marquis de Givenchy, and his wife, the former Béatrice ("Sissi") Badin, Givenchy was born in Beauvais, France. The Taffin family, which traces its roots to Venice, Italy (the original surname was Taffini), had been ennobled in 1713, at which time the head of the family became Marquis de Givenchy.

After his father's death from influenza in 1930, the future fashion designer and his elder brother, Jean-Claude (who inherited the family's marquessate and eventually became the president of Parfums Givenchy), were raised by their mother and maternal grandmother, Marguerite Dieterle Badin, the widow of Jules Badin, an artist who was the director of the historic Gobelins and Beauvais tapestry factories. Artistic professions ran in the extended Badin family. Givenchy's maternal great-grandfather, Jules Dieterle, was a set designer who also created designs for the Beauvais factory, including a set of 13 designs for the Elysée Palace. One of his great-great-grandfathers also designed sets for the Paris Opera.

Impressed by the 1937 World's Fair in Paris, young Givenchy decided he wanted to work "somewhere in fashion design". He studied at the École des Beaux Arts in Paris. His first designs were done for Jacques Fath in 1945, an association that came through family members who knew Fath personally. Later he did designs for Lucien Lelong (1946) — working alongside the still-unknown Pierre Balmain and Christian Dior. From 1947 to 1951 he worked for the avantgarde designer Elsa Schiaparelli.

In 1952, Givenchy opened his own design house at the Plaine Monceau in Paris. Later he named his first collection "Bettina Graziani" for Paris's top model at the time. His style was marked by innovativeness, contrary to the more conservative designs by Dior.

At 25, he was the youngest designer of the progressive Paris fashion scene. His first collections were characterized by the use of rather more cheap fabrics for financial reasons, but they always piqued curiosity through their design.

Audrey Hepburn, later the most prominent proponent of Givenchy's fashion, and Givenchy met in 1953 during the shoot of Sabrina. He went on to design almost all the wardrobe worn by her in her movies. He also developed his first perfume collection for her (L'Interdit and Le de Givenchy). Grace Kelly, Gloria Guinness, Dolores Guinness, Babe Paley, The Duchess of Windsor, Mona von Bismarck and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis were other famous customers of Givenchy's.

At that time, Givenchy also met his idol, Cristobal Balenciaga, who had also influenced Paco Rabanne's work previously.

In 1968, Givenchy's prêt-à-porter collection debuted; later a men's line was also launched.

The House of Givenchy was split in 1981, with the perfume line going to Veuve Clicquot, while the fashion branch went to the Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy group's portfolio of upscale brands. As of today, Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy owns Parfum Givenchy as well.

Hubert de Givenchy retired from fashion design in 1995. His chosen successor to head the Givenchy label was Dominique Sirop, but Bernard Arnault, head of LVMH, thought Sirop was not well enough known and appointed John Galliano instead. After a brief stint by Galliano, a five year stay from Alexander McQueen and a term from 2001 to 2004 by Julian MacDonald, Givenchy women's ready to wear and haute couture has been headed by Riccardo Tisci since 2005.

Givenchy's nephew, James Taffin de Givenchy, is an American jewelry designer.

Bibliography

*Pamela Clarke Keogh, Hubert de Givenchy (introduction): Audrey Style (1999), Aurum Press. ISBN 1-85410-645-7 *Liaut, Jean-Noel: Hubert de Givenchy: Entre Vies et Legendes (2000), Editions Grasset & Fasquelle. ISBN 2-246-57991-0

External links

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This biography says:

...Grace Kelly, Gloria Guinness, Dolores Guinness, Babe Paley, The Duchess of Windsor, Mona von Bismarck and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis were other famous customers of Givenchy's....

This biography says:

...Later he did designs for Lucien Lelong (1946) — working alongside the still-unknown Pierre Balmain and Christian Dior. From 1947 to 1951 he worked for the avantgarde designer Elsa Schiaparelli....

This biography says:

...At that time, Givenchy also met his idol, Cristobal Balenciaga, who had also influenced Paco Rabanne's work previously....

That biography says:

...He taught fashion design classes, inspiring other designers such as Oscar de la Renta, André Courrèges, Emanuel Ungaro, and Hubert de Givenchy. Today the Balenciaga fashion house continues under the direction of Nicolas Ghesquière and under the ownership of the Gucci Group...

This biography says:

...At that time, Givenchy also met his idol, Cristobal Balenciaga, who had also influenced Paco Rabanne's work previously....

That biography says:

...Meticulously tailored and featuring oversized buttons and boxy jackets, as well as occasionally dramatic décolletage, it was a style that was inspired by the work of Hubert de Givenchy. Cassini designed a reported 300 outfits for the First Lady, including a much-copied coat made of leopard pelts and a heavy satin gown for the inaugural ball in 1961; the Cassini outfits were paid for by her father-in-law, Joseph P...

This biography says:

Count Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy (born February 21, 1927) is a French aristocrat and fashion designer who founded the The House of Givenchy in 1952. He is famous for having designed much of the personal and professional wardrobe of Audrey Hepburn, as well as clothing for clients such as Jacqueline Kennedy.

That biography says:

After Roman Holiday, she filmed Billy Wilder's Sabrina with Humphrey Bogart and William Holden. Hepburn was sent to fashion designer Hubert de Givenchy to decide on her wardrobe. When told that "Miss Hepburn" was coming to see him, Givenchy famously expected to see Katharine...

This biography says:

...He also developed his first perfume collection for her (L'Interdit and Le de Givenchy). Grace Kelly, Gloria Guinness, Dolores Guinness, Babe Paley, The Duchess of Windsor, Mona von Bismarck and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis were other famous customers of Givenchy's...

This biography says:

...His chosen successor to head the Givenchy label was Dominique Sirop, but Bernard Arnault, head of LVMH, thought Sirop was not well enough known and appointed John Galliano instead. After a brief stint by Galliano, a five year stay from Alexander McQueen and a term from 2001 to 2004 by Julian MacDonald, Givenchy women's ready to wear and haute couture has been headed by Riccardo Tisci since 2005...

This biography says:

...His chosen successor to head the Givenchy label was Dominique Sirop, but Bernard Arnault, head of LVMH, thought Sirop was not well enough known and appointed John Galliano instead. After a brief stint by Galliano, a five year stay from Alexander McQueen and a term from 2001 to 2004 by Julian MacDonald, Givenchy women's ready to wear and haute couture has been headed by Riccardo Tisci since 2005...

That biography says:

...Among his clients were the Duchess of Windsor and the Duke of Windsor Gloria Vanderbilt, Doris Duke, Greta Garbo, Lilian Gish, and Truman Capote. In the 1960s, the list grew to include the Begum Aga Khan, Audrey Hepburn, Yul Brynner, Hubert de Givenchy, and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis....

That biography says:

...He is script writer and host of the television profiles "Alexander McQueen", "Gianfranco Ferrè", "John Galliano", "Daniel Hechter", "Emanuel Ungaro", "Hubert de Givenchy", "Issei Miyake", "Carmen Carven", "Kenzo", "Christian Lacroix", "Lloyd Klein", "Michiko Koshino", "Nino Cerruti", "Olivier Lapidus", "Paco Rabanne", "Pierre Cardin", "Hanae Mori", "Zhana Zhekova", "Maria Nedkova","Nathaly Genova","Zapryan Marinov" and others.

That biography says:

...She enjoyed attending high-class parties, borrowing couture gowns, and meeting famous people such as Marlene Dietrich, Orson Welles and Hubert de Givenchy.

That biography says:

*1949 – Color – The Emperor Waltz *1950 – Black and White – The Heiress – won *1951 – Color – Samson and Delilah – won *1951 – Black and White – All About Eve – won *1952 – Black and White – A Place in the Sun – won *1953 – Color – The Greatest Show on Earth *1953 – Black and White – Carrie *1954 – Black and White – Roman Holiday – won *1955 – Black and White – Sabrina – won *:Although Edith Head won an Oscar for Best Costumes, most of Audrey Hepburn's outfits were in fact created by Hubert de Givenchy and chosen by the star herself. Edith Head refused to be shown alongside Givenchy in the credits, so she was given credit for the costumes, even though the Academy's votes were obviously for Hepburn's attire...